Vietnam: Navigating Striking Landscapes and Interactions

Location: Hao Long Bay

Our first couple of days in Vietnam were spent in one of the most beautiful areas in the world: Hao Long Bay. 

Embarking on a two-day, one-night boat journey through the enchanting waters of Ha Long Bay in Vietnam is like stepping into a living postcard. The emerald waters adorned with towering limestone karsts create a surreal panorama, and setting sail, I knew this would be one of the most beautiful landscapes I had ever seen.

As the boat gently cut through the calm waters, the jagged karsts rise like ancient sentinels, and looking out on the water, it seems there are an infinite number of them. Along with our boat, there were many others, all catering to tourists wanting to experience this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

After we settled into our cozy cabin, which Riley and I were delighted to find had a massive window on the opposite wall so we could always see what was happening around us, the boat set its course for the Sung Sot Cave, also known as the Surprise Cave. The cave lives up to its name as you navigate through its caverns adorned with stalactites and stalagmites. Our guide offered us many fun facts as we hiked through the massive cave and took many photos. 

Lunch on the boat convinced us this would also be a food tour as the many freshly prepared Vietnamese dishes were laid out on the table. Each dish was unique and incredible, from the catch of the day to squid to different rice dishes, all prepared with local herbs and spices. 

Continuing into the afternoon, we went to another island, where we hiked to a temple. The sun began to set on our descent, and we jumped into the ocean as the sky transformed into a warm orange. We returned to the boat as the sun set behind the tall karsts.

The boat anchored, and with a cocktail in hand, we savored the moment, stars coming out for the night.

After a lovely happy hour, we had a short cooking class on preparing spring rolls, then enjoyed another ornate meal. After our boat of fifteen people had all performed their own karaoke songs, we went fishing off the end of the ship for squid. Coming up empty-handed, we went to bed, keeping our shades open to see a sky full of stars and a peaceful boat rocking in a calm ocean. 

The following day, we woke up bright and early to see the sunrise while drinking our coffee. After, we headed for a floating pearl farm to pick up our kayaks. We learned all about the pearl industry of Ha Long Bay, then went kayaking in secret lagoons, marveling at the touring islands. After kayaking, we returned to port and said our goodbyes to the beautiful Ha Long Bay. 

Location: Ninh Binh

On our first day in Ninh Binh, we grabbed bikes and hit the road, biking through the green fields surrounded by dramatic, tall hills- the Vietnam countryside. 

View from the airbnb porch

Tam Coc is one of the region's most iconic landscapes, often called the "inland Halong Bay." Emerald-green rice fields stretch to the horizon, interspersed with towering limestone karsts that jut dramatically from the ground. We biked through, taking the broad road, hitting the occasional small village or cluster of temples. There were also beautiful graveyards with collections of different monuments honoring the dead.

The next day, we embarked on a leisurely boat ride along the Ngo Dong River, passing through a series of caves that pierce through the karst formations. The scenery is breathtaking; with the rhythmic rowing of local boat women, we were soon instructed to pick up a paddle and help out, leading us into a race with the other boats. 

For lunch each day, we would go to one of the local restaurants within walking distance of our Airbnb, always ordering Pho complimented with a beer. At night, we biked into Tom Cok and hit up one of the busier restaurants there. We found a cheap gem that served large plates of pineapple tofu stir fry that was conveniently next door to a 4 story bar with a rooftop overlook and, our personal favorite, a ping pong table. Each night, we would return and beat each other and others at ping pong, paddle in one hand and Bia Hanoi (a popular Vietnamese beer) in the other. We left sweaty and happy each night, hopped back on our bikes, and rode back to our Airbnb through the quiet rice paddies beneath the stars.

On our last day, we went to the Mua Caves viewpoint, which offers a panoramic vista of Tam Coc and its surroundings. Climbing the steep staircase to the summit rewarded us with sweeping views of the karst landscape and the winding river below. 

Before we knew it, it was time to leave the peaceful countryside and return to Hanoi. 

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Side Note: The Struggle of Being Female in Vietnam

I went on a run in Ninh Binh, Vietnam, primarily through small towns and rice fields. 

I was followed, jeered at, stared down, cat-called, and almost ran off the road. 

Once I got back to the Airbnb, I was angry, sad, and scared. 

Then I tried to understand. 

First off, I am the tourist, the outsider American coming into their country, yes, with respect to their customs and an open mind. At least that's what I try for, but I am still a foreigner. 

Second, I am a young woman. I did not see any Vietnamese women on runs or hikes. I realized how lucky I am to be so empowered, to be from a place where everyone runs, gets outside, and surfs, regardless of gender, age, or race. 

I do not know enough about Vietnam to make remarks regarding the patriarchy within their country, to go into detail as to why everything that happened to me on my running excursion did. 

But I am reminded that each place in the world treats their women differently, with various pros and cons. 

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Location: Hanoi

In the markets bordering the street, t-shirts are sold, stating, "I survived the streets of Hanoi." 

I believe this is a very apt way to describe this chaotic, busy, overwhelming city. 

We stayed in the Old Quarter, which contained tightly packed streets lined with narrow buildings, street vendors, and French colonial architecture- a blend of past and present.

Hanoi is a haven for food lovers, and its street food scene is legendary. From the savory aroma of pho noodle soup wafting through alleyways to the sizzling delights of banh mi stalls, the city beckons foodies on a culinary adventure. Sitting on tiny plastic stools, locals and visitors alike indulge in the simple pleasures of Vietnamese cuisine.

To sum up, our two days in Hanoi are actually quite simple:

Shopping and eating.

Banh Mi and long white pants and skirts. 

And trying very hard to not get run over by a motor bike or car.

And to try to avoid the ushering arms of Vietnamese outside of restaurants attempting to gather patrons.

That was something unexpected about Vietnam: sellers' hands-on approach with their customers. Unlike in the US, no invisible boundaries are set around people's personal space. My lower back was pressed into, trying to herd me into a bar multiple times; my path was blocked while walking on the sidewalk to get into a store. 

Another shock- the language.

Raising your voice in Vietnam is how one speaks the language. It's normal. However, this is shocking to an American.

For example, I asked a coffee shop if they accepted credit cards one morning. The owner did not say the typical "no, sorry" in the calm, collected manner I expected. Instead, it went more like "no. no. No. NO!" his voice rising to a true yell by the end. 

I step back, trying to lower my emotions and calm my racing heart, knowing he did not mean to scare me in this way. It's just their culture. 

I found that Vietnam was the most "foreign" country to me on this trip. I did not fit in in the slightest, not only because of my long blonde hair and 5-foot-long legs but also because I am an English-speaking, perhaps a bit sheltered, American young woman. I have never gone a day in my life without clean drinking water, never had to barter for anything before this trip, have lived primarily in the suburbs my entire life, and taught never to raise my voice.

To say the least, the culture I was raised in is quite different from the Vietnamese culture. 

They have a beautiful country with a rich and complex history. Ultimately, I will end with this: there were many emotions, such as alarm and fear, that I felt daily in Vietnam- from dodging motorbikes to navigating a street full of relentless salespeople. However, this challenged me to keep a clear head and to stay calm. Fight or flight must often be suppressed to think rationally and navigate a situation in the best manner possible.