A Bintang A Day Keeps the Doctor Away: My Bali Escapades

Location: Nusa Penida, Bali

The Steps down to Diamond Beach. Photo taken by: Riley Clark (KeepItWildxRiley)

Important to note: Not every moment makes it to the pages of these articles. Health issues, exhaustion, and the typical hurdles of travel were always present. This is more of a highlights reel.

Riley and I’s first day in Nusa Penida, an island off the mainland of Bali, was spent avoiding potholes as I clung to Riley on the back of a moped, meandering through the jungle as we made our way to the three infamous beaches of Bali. Our first stop was Kelingking beach, which was swarming with tourists as we arrived. Prior to starting the steep hike down to the beach, you walk through fruit stands and other makeshift shelters selling water, juices, and Bintangs, the most classic and popular Indonesian beer. Navigating through hordes of people, we began taking the white stone steps down, overlooking the peninsula-shaped island, arching into a hill before dropping off into the ocean. I had seen this view before, in pictures that circulate Pinterest and other photography apps. 

Kelingking Lookout, pre-rock climb descent. Photo taken by: Riley Clark (KeepItWildxRiley)

The tourists quickly thinned out as the steep stairs quickly became ropes that fell over divots in rock as you had to climb on hands and knees the remaining half-mile down. After sweating our way down, we made it to the white sand beach with crashing blue waves. Chucking off our clothes, we sprinted into the cool water, floating happily. Once emerging, we quickly realized a lack of shade and began our ascent back up to the ridge line. Enjoying the use of our muscles after long travel days, we scampered up the mountain, passing other tourists, and got up to the top, smiling, and in half the time it took for us to get down.

We went to a stand selling Bintangs and gulped down the cooling, light amber liquid. Finishing those, we got cold, $2 smoothie bowls and watched the waves crash far below. Eventually, it was time to head to the next beach. 45 minutes and a few heart attacks later, we arrived at Broken Beach, snapped a few photos, and continued to Diamond Beach, another hour past Broken.

The best for last, Diamond Beach, blew us away. At first, we were surprised at the expensive entrance fee, but we quickly decided it was worth it as we walked down the steps to the beach. At this point, the day was beginning to end, and the sun was casting a golden glow on the bright green fauna-covered white rock islands rising from the water. We ran into the waves, did handstands on the beach, and relaxed on the sand.

By 7pm, we were at a waterside restaurant near our Airbnb. We enjoyed a yummy meal (with more Bintangs) and headed up to the Airbnb for a night swim. Sorting through pictures, we hit the hay, excited for the next day of scuba diving!

Sunset swim at the AirBnb!

Vroom Vroom

Location: Kuta & Uluwatu, Bali

Sitting at a long wooden outdoor table on the beach, surrounded by fellow travelers, devouring my Nasi Goreng, and watching the sunset while surfers caught the last waves – it was a moment that convinced me Uluwatu wouldn't be a one-time affair.

But let me rewind a bit.

Staying in the bustling city of Kuta, Riley and I decided to venture out to the peninsula into the smaller city of Uluwatu. Known for surfing, beautiful beaches, and nice houses, Uluwatu didn't disappoint. Dreamland Beach, our first stop, led to a deal with a local to rent his vibrant red 9-foot surfboard for the calm waves on a clear, sunny day. Switching off between photography and surfing, Riley and I spent the morning in bliss. Once the late afternoon hit, we found ourselves ravenous and were recommended to try the Cashew Tree Cafe. The Cashew Tree was one of the best meals we had ever had. I got the green matcha vanilla smoothie along with a delicious grain bowl. Stuffed and satisfied, we headed down to Bingin Beach, south of Dreamland and north of the infamous Panang Panang Beach (featured in Eat Pray Love.)

Left and Right: Dreamland Surfing. Middle: Grain bowl with Smoothie. Photos taken by: Riley Clark (KeepItWildxRiley)

Bingin Beach: a few small fishing boats dot the perfect surfing waves with a white sand beach that goes up against cliffs. Many small but beautiful restaurants, bars, houses, and small inns are built into the cliffs. Some are connected by ladders and very steep staircases. Most of the buildings are painted in white with accents of blue and orange, covered in ivy and other ferns. A beautiful place to return to and stay. Grabbing ourselves our daily Bintang, we posted up on the beach and read our books. Later, there was a beach barbecue, and we sat on the long picnic benches and ate our delicious local Balinese food while listening to live music. Finishing up, we explored some of the cobblestone staircases, finding a couple of small clubs and beautiful-looking inns.

We left with a promise to return.

Location: Ubud, Bali

On our first day in Ubud, Bali, we were in quite a hurry. The impromptu decision to attend a yoga class at the renowned Yoga Barn materialized at 10 am, and the class commenced at 11 am, with us over an hour away. In a whirlwind of a taxi ride and a sweaty sprint down Ubud's main street, we miraculously made it! Stepping into the yoga barn, a vibrant jungle-like retreat adorned with captivating statues, including a three-foot-tall stone Yoda, an immediate sense of tranquility enveloped us. Shoeless, we entered a windowed room overlooking a gentle stream, surrounded by lush ferns and tropical trees. We were instructed to close our eyes and feel.

Among a diverse crowd clad in loose, earth-toned attire, we surrendered to the rhythm, only to discover that the class was more of an energizing dance session with closed eyes, allowing our bodies to respond to the music. Two hours later, drenched in sweat and radiating happiness, we were hungrier than a one-legged man in a butt-kicking contest. Our remedy? The Yoga Barn's "traditional Balinese buffet" is a culinary indulgence well worth the $7 entrance fee. Let's just say we went above and beyond. Loading four plates with tempe, curries, rice, fruits, and more, we sat on the buffet house porch overlooking yogis executing headstands beneath colorful tents for an hour, unable to move. Eventually, we managed to pry ourselves off the beanbags and wobbled the mile back to our Airbnb.

The Yoga Barn

After refreshing ourselves, we decided to hit up the street markets of Ubud. Wandering down cobblestone alleys, we encountered an array of rings, necklaces, sundresses, tie-dye pants, and more. We then happened upon a road that surprised us in the most wonderful way. It led us behind a few buildings and quickly up into rice fields. Soon, the quiet beauty of the fields enveloped us, looking out to see a few Balinese farmers with scythes and wooden conical hats harvesting the crops. We walked the palm tree-lined dirt path between rice fields until we came upon the Sweet Orange, a bohemian outdoor cafe overlooking the fields. Heading in, we snagged a wooden bench and ordered light salads as the remnants of lunch lingered in our bellies. We watched the sun go down in the west over the fields of green and small huts dotting the land, fireflies revealing themselves. An orange tabby cat joined us at the table, offering company as we enjoyed our meal. After paying, we set out to find a good happy hour and live music.

Palm tree lined path through Rice Fields

As we meandered through bustling streets, our wish was granted when the bass player of a live band signaled us to enter a small restaurant. Smiling, we joined a long table, and soon, fellow patrons were buying us drinks (mostly Arrack-based, a local Balinese spirit with an unknown alcohol content). Requests for songs from The Eagles, Sting, Pink Floyd, and more filled the air, and the room buzzed with excitement as people from diverse backgrounds joined in. Conversations with a Canadian writer, sharing cigarettes with a young German, and flirting with recent Irish university graduates added to the night's vibrancy. After another hour of dancing, we staggered back to the Airbnb, hoping that the mysterious Arrack wouldn't gift us an unforgiving hangover.